Raising Penang's Bar

Backdoor Bodega's Koh Yung Shen is elevating Penang's bar scene with Penang Cocktail Week

- Katelyn Tan

At first glance, one would not recognise the menu at Backdoor Bodega for what it is. Slotted into a shelf, the red hard-cover printed book looks like a tourist guide in the travel section of a bookshop, filled with stories from a dive into Penang-grown nutmeg and a map of the island’s different hiking trails to detailing iconic eateries from Nyonya and char kuey teow to rojak spots.

“It actually doubles up as our menu as well, which has always been rooted in local ingredients,” enthuses Koh Yung Shen, Backdoor Bodega’s founder, who notices my enthusiasm. It is only then that I realise each story, penned by the humble bartender himself, corresponds to a respective drink.

The current menu is inspired by different parts of Penang’s culture— for instance, the guide to hiking trails faces a selection of bamboo-infused cocktails, while the ode to rojak ends with a whisky-based cocktail inspired by the delicacy with green mango, tamarind, and shrimp paste.

“After the pandemic, we had an influx of tourists as Penang opened up,” he explains. “While locals would visit due to the familiarity of flavours, tourists would require more explanation when it came to such produce—hence, the guidebook.”

While it might seem unusual for a mixologist to be so multi-talented, Koh draws from his previous experiences. He first began his career in advertising and design, his first business being apparel line The Swagger Salon, which now hides the entrance to the Penang-based speakeasy, Backdoor Bodega. Koh moved to Penang from Kuala Lumpur in 2014 when he had an offer from the landlord of Hin Bus Depot to open the physical retail store.