![lost in time](https://cdn.magzter.com/1450523306/1713785691/articles/ney1yS4aT1713859637370/LOST-IN-TIME.jpg)
iam looking for the gates to Hades, but have overshot the turn. Somewhere below is the cave from which Heracles dragged the fearsome three-headed dog Cerberus into daylight so bright its slobber formed yellow flowers of aconite. Instead, I find a beach of pale rock and water that's glass-calm to the horizon. Beneath its surface are hundreds of curled little fish with flanks of tarnished silver.
I'm in mountainous Southern Greece, midway through an epic road trip across the Peloponnese, the four-tentacled peninsula connected to the mainland by the Isthmus of Corinth and surrounded by the Ionian Sea to the west, the Mediterranean to the south, and the Aegean to the east. This storied peninsula contains traces of classical, Venetian, Byzantine, and Turkish rule. Modern European history springs from the Peloponnese. It is home to Sparta and Olympia, names that sound so like myths of antiquity you might forget they're actual places. There are towns such as Kardamyli, so lovely that Agamemnon offered it to sulky Achilles to lure him out of bed to fight the Trojan War. In deepest Mani, the longest of the peninsula's tentacles-one of the last wild parts of Europe, a place that turned back even the Ottomans-the cliffs and gorges seem to be made of shadows, and empty stone villages rupture the sky like mausoleums.
Denne historien er fra May - June 2024-utgaven av Condé Nast Traveler US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra May - June 2024-utgaven av Condé Nast Traveler US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
![FOR LOVE OF THE GAME](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/JTVWvdbK91722427405643/FOR-LOVE-OF-THE-GAME.jpg)
FOR LOVE OF THE GAME
A new crop of understated camps in Botswana appeals to travelers seeking a no-frills wildlife experience
![THE CITY OF LIGHT, DONE RIGHT](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/0AiHhce7G1722427268212/THE-CITY-OF-LIGHT-DONE-RIGHT.jpg)
THE CITY OF LIGHT, DONE RIGHT
The dancer, choreographer, and model Salif Gueye on where to dine, shop, and disco in Paris
![MOTOR CITY MAKEOVER](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/prmsHbe1J1722427104502/MOTOR-CITY-MAKEOVER.jpg)
MOTOR CITY MAKEOVER
Aonce abandoned train station, now given second life, is acenterpiece of Detroit's rebirth
![COLD COMFORT](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/0ZzVsFknd1722426936167/COLD-COMFORT.jpg)
COLD COMFORT
North of Copenhagen, a wild and windy sweep of Danish coast has become an unlikely surf and lifestyle hub
![HUNGRY HEARTS](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/o1QfIuhSR1722426754185/HUNGRY-HEARTS.jpg)
HUNGRY HEARTS
Drawing on abundant ingredients and ancestral influences, restaurant menus across Guatemala are showcasing the country’s soul
![On the Right Track](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/V1q-ZmKFK1722426583299/ON-THE-RIGHT-TRACK.jpg)
On the Right Track
The return of Belmond's iconic Eastern & Oriental Express brings the romance of train travel to the wilds of Malaysia
![Let the River Answer](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/U7XP_8UPq1722426424531/LET-THE-RIVER-ANSWER.jpg)
Let the River Answer
On a rafting trip in Canada’s remote Northwest Territories, Jayme Moye discovers what’s beneath the surface of one of the world’s most pristine natural wonderlands
![House of Heritage](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/NnNmIt8GF1722425940760/HOUSE-OF-HERITAGE.jpg)
House of Heritage
At Louis Vuitton’s workshop and family home just outside Paris, meticulous craftsmanship is a way of life
![Food for the Soul](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/KzxB9gtaG1722425672218/FOOD-FOR-THE-SOUL.jpg)
Food for the Soul
On the latest of many trips to Thailand, Tom Parker Bowles delights in flavors that never cease to challenge and comfort him
![ACTOR RASHIDA JONES on JAPAN](https://reseuro.magzter.com/100x125/articles/12188/1752381/Ektb_jWGC1722425379997/ACTOR-RASHIDA-JONES-ON-JAPAN.jpg)
ACTOR RASHIDA JONES on JAPAN
When I was in Kyoto filming my new show Sunny in 2022, I started a list of things that I wanted to remember once I didn't live there anymore.