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BEST IN CLASS

Marie Claire - US

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The Craftsmanship Issue

Forget dominating an entire fashion industry. These brands are satisfied with perfecting a single category.

- BY HALIE LESAVAGE

BEST IN CLASS

Modern fashion is a business built on three words: more, next, now. Decades ago, designers like Guccio Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo got away with spending years refining their signature purses or heels before growing into head-to-toe looks. These days, brands that start small-batch may stay that way for a decade, tops. Between the rising costs of creating goods by hand and shoppers' social-media-inspired pull to wear a different outfit every day, specialists are now forced to become generalists. The quest to craft an end-all, be-all white T-shirt ends in a full suite of basics—plus coats, skirts, and tote bags. Nap dresses now come with sister matching sets and accessories for all waking hours. A former bag-only label launched with the motto "fewer, better" now makes apparel, outerwear, and travel items in step with the fashion calendar.

When a brand goes from selling one category to one hundred seemingly overnight, a savvy shopper has to wonder what's lost. (Usually, it's durable materials, slow production, and the human touch.) It's why a simple, standalone, handcrafted piece now feels less like a product being sold and more like a hidden gem to cherish.

But there's good news for those who value a bespoke hat or a carefully cut shirt from a family-owned mill. A handful of designers are bucking the growth-at-all-costs trend by showing restraint and staying small. The following labels—nearly all women-led, by the way—have joyfully found their niche, devoting time, care, and expertise to their chosen category. They remind us that true style doesn't mean becoming all things to all shoppers at warp speed. Sometimes, thriving means doing just one thing exceptionally well.

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