The Kappo Maverick

A bona fide Japanophile, Aeron Choo shares her journey from being a kitchen apprentice to the chef-owner of omakase restaurant Kappou.

- DAWN WONG

At 16, while her peers were fresh out of high school, chef Aeron Choo embarked on a path less travelled. Armed with a fervent passion for the culinary arts, she went on a pilgrimage to Japan and doggedly knocked on the doors of various restaurants that could offer her a place in their kitchens.

The rhythmic clatter of dishes marked the ingénue’s start in the restaurant world — as a dishwasher. Choo's career trajectory from the dishwashing station was fuelled by a thirst for knowledge. She would go on to spend the next six years working under the tutelage of master chefs in restaurants such as Kashiwaya Osaka Senriyama and Kikunoi Honten (Kyoto), where she honed her skills in the ancient art of sushi-making, sashimi preparation, and the delicate intricacies of kaiseki cuisine. Today, the vivacious 29-year-old runs Kappou, a 20-seat kappo-style omakase restaurant in Raffles Place, which opened in March.

As a female chef navigating a male-dominated profession, Choo faced innumerable challenges. In Japan, the workplace facilities didn't cater to women — there were no lockers, toilets, and dormitories for females. Moreover, women were strictly prohibited from standing behind the sushi counters, which were considered sacred and off-limits due to antiquated beliefs related to menstrual cycles. This meant that she was relegated to the back end of the kitchen.