Tenders of the Vine

Visiting Russia’s Nascent Wine Region

- Nadezhda Grebennikova

You, Bordeaux, are a friend In misfortune, and in sorrow, Ready to serve, today, tomorrow, Always faithful to the end.

– Alexander Pushkin, Yevgeny Onegin (IV.46)

A TABLE STANDS IN THE CENTER OF A FLAWLESS LAWN, ALONG the shore of a mirror-smooth lake. A gentleman is sitting at the table with his lady friend. They seem entirely unbothered by the frequent droplets of light rain that drip down the collar of the gentleman’s red sweatshirt, plunge into his lady’s revealing neckline, and plink into their wine glasses.

It is ten in the morning, and the imperturbable couple is enjoying a chardonnay breakfast.

Suddenly, the woman jumps up from her seat with a blissful smile and runs off somewhere. The gentleman lazily crumbles some bread, offering it to the ducks that have surrounded his table.

“They’re stalking me,” he says, half-apologetically, as he meets my gaze.

“You should dip the bread in wine,” I jokingly suggest.

“Already have,” he replies.

The lady returns at a trot. She is carrying an uncorked bottle of white wine. The ambulatory foiegras respectfully parts to allow her through, yet they do not depart.

It became popular last year to book a getaway to a Russian winery. The country’s borders were closed and seaside hotels were overbooked. So it was an extremely wise choice to spend one’s weekend in a small chateau on the side of a mountain, watching the wind stir the young vines, and admiring how the sun dances in a glass of white wine. And then red. And then sparkling, dessert, and semi-dry…