Rural Rides

The Charm of the COTSWOLDS

- Julie Newman

On a cloudy Monday afternoon in August, my husband and I approach our rented holiday cottage near Bourtonon-the-Water in Gloucestershire. We are rather downcast from atiring journey, but as we drive down some narrow lanes, wondering if we’ll end up in a farmyard, the honey coloured stone cottage looms up in front of us and our mood changes.

Although slightly misty, the view from the cottage’s terrace, down the valley is stunning — different shades of green patchwork as far as the eye can see. We hastily unpack and investigate our living quarters for the next few days, then make a pot of tea and start to plan our Cotswolds sightseeing, allowing for the changeable weather.

The following morning, feeling refreshed after a good night’s sleep, we decide to visit Chedworth Roman Villa. This is one of the grandest Roman villas to be excavated in Britain, and we’re pleasantly surprised that there are people in Roman costume demonstrating the different aspects of what life was like around 2,000 years ago. Under separate canvases, a cook, a shoemaker and a writer all show us their skills; very interesting and the implements are not unlike the things we use today. Inside the modern excavation building the intricate mosaic floors, the hypocaust systems and the bathhouses are on display. They would have been the height of luxury; it is such a shame all this was abandoned when the Romans departed.

Excavators are midway through an exciting, five-year programme and the remains of the outbuildings suggest this villa was more like a self-supporting village. We spend the morning absorbing it all then drive to Lower Slaughter, a delightful little place all built of Cotswold stone.