My Head In The Clouds

On a Quest to See a Lily That Is Breaking Down Barriers

- Chaitali Patel

A ball of nervous excitement built up in my stomach as I prepared for my visit to Manipur a few months ago. The state has been a hotbed of political unrest and agitation for years, and my trip included a visit to Ukhrul, a district in the state’s northeast, which until recently was off-limits. While the situation on the ground has improved significantly, tensions still linger beneath the surface of calm. It was fitting that my visit coincided with the Shirui Lily Festival, which celebrates Manipur’s pink-and-white state flower with bell-shaped petals. The Tangkhul Nagas who inhabit the region consider it to be the embodiment of a protective spirit, symbolising happiness and prosperity: two qualities that the people of Manipur hope they will see more of in the coming years.

Shortly after reaching Ukhrul, on a morning plagued by rain and poor visibility, I joined guide Wren Raleng and his group. A 30-minute drive took us to Shirui village for our trek to Shirui Kashong or Shirui peak. It is only in this region that the Shirui lily blooms during the monsoon. However, half way into the trek, I felt miserable with nausea and dizziness. Relang waited patiently by my side. I contemplated turning back, but my sense of pride wouldn’t let me. While I tried to coax every muscle in my body to move, local boys ran past us, and Relang explained that they were competing to see who could climb up and down the peak the fastest. Then came a woman in her 50s, who made her way up hoisting her phanek, a traditional sarong-like skirt up to her knees. That was it—that was all the convincing my muscles needed.