Nothing Organised About Religion Here

Temples Allow Shoes and There Are Really No Dress Restrictions Either. Faith in Hong Kong Has Been Subsumed Into Its General Way of Life

- Bhavya Dore

 At the altar in the dimly lit sanctum, Wong Hui Ling advises that it might be a good idea to touch the pen in the hand of the idol. The idol is of god Man, of the Man Mo Temple in Hong Kong’s central district, and literature happens to be his main portfolio. “Do you want inspiration? Do you want to be the next Rowling?” asks Hui Ling, who is conducting this morning’s walking tour in Hong Kong’s colonial district. Say no more. I move to make the connection.

Standing in the heart of the old city for more than 150 years, the Man Mo Temple is dedicated to the gods of war (Mo) and literature (Man). The former is especially busy during exam time, when he is visited by students and their parents. “Just before school starts you will see a lot of people here,” she says. “People come to pray to get good grades and progress in their careers.”

There may be much less conflict now— Hong Kong’s politically charged occupy movement notwithstanding—so you’d think Mo would have fewer devotees. But though the army has little to worry about, the police still come here to pray. “And guess who else?” asks Hui Ling. Answer: the gangsters. “Both groups are at loggerheads and they ironically pray to the same gods,” she continues, shrugging. “I guess it depends on who prays the hardest and the longest.”

The main altar is flanked by sentries on either side, there’s a large central courtyard with an ornate door and at the entrance there are brass palanquins for when the idols are taken out in processions. The air is redolent with rising plumes of incense.