Vibrant VALLETTA

Malta’s capital is a medieval city in miniature, says Alice Barnes-Brown

Taking up no more than ¼ square mile, Valletta is the smallest capital city in Europe. But, from my vantage point on the leisurely ferry ride into town, I can see that it’s a city of many layers – once you get past the Crusader-built fortifications, you’re in a world of multidenominational cathedrals, multistorey townhouses and multicoloured streets.

I’m sailing into UNESCO-listed Valletta from Sliema, a glittering resort town. For €1.50 (£1.29) each way, it’s a bargain, considering the amazing views (sit on the left side of the top deck for the best panoramas). This year, hotels will be cheap too – Malta is offering up to €200 (£170) discounts to lure tourists back.

Guns at high noon

Disembarking in the early morning, I’m here for golden hour – a time when the back roads are still quiet, and the sun bathes the rotunda of Basilica Santwarju talMadonna tal-Karmnu in just the right light. There are almost 360 churches on the tiny Maltese islands, but this is definitely one to visit. The vast Catholic complex dominates Valletta’s skyline, including the neighbouring Anglican cathedral, St Paul’s.

A long way from London, the cathedral’s neoclassical marble interior and high ceilings are a place to seek shelter from the rising heat. A relic from Malta’s 150-year stint as a Crown colony, Brit expats and holidaymakers alike congregate here, and I have a quick chat with a friendly English priest.