The wines of Cyprus are undergoing an extraordinary transformation. The enthusiasm and commitment amongst the younger generation of wine growers is palpable. But first some background.
I first visited Cyprus back in 1977 and took a photograph which turned out to be one of the very first things I ever had published. It was a road sign, with the caption, "Danger! Road slippery with grape juice." And indeed, a couple of days later, we followed a truck full of grapes heading for the local cooperative with a steady stream of grape juice oozing from it.
When I took the Master of Wine exams a couple of years later, we had a question in the fortified wine-tasting paper that comprised three Sherries. One was the real thing from Jerez; one was a potentially confusing example from South Africa and the third was an undistinguished example of the popular Cyprus Sherry brand, Emva. At that time, Cyprus was the third biggest importer of wine to Britain, after France and Italy.
Winemaking in Cyprus has had a chequered history. It is an island on a crossroads in the Eastern Mediterranean, so everyone has been there. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Normans, Venetians and Genoese. And then the Ottomans invaded the island in 1571 and wine production stopped for 300 years. Grape growing continued for table grapes and raisins, but winemaking did not resume again until the British colonised the island in 1878.
The island of Cyprus is dominated by the Troodos mountains, with their fascinating geology. The mountains were formed when two tectonic plates, the African and the Eurasian, crashed 92 million years ago. And then the Troodos, which had been eight kilometres under the sea, were suddenly thrown 1000 metres up in the air; quite simply, low became high. This is where geologists come to study an ancient seabed but curiously there are no seashells.
この記事は Sommelier India の Autumn 2024 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は Sommelier India の Autumn 2024 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
Intimate and Welcoming
Reserve a table at AI Garamond in the centre of Turin for a taste of authentic Piedmonteset and Sicilian cuisine
Tribute to the Kerala Kitchen
Kappa Chakka Kandhari is a restaurant like no other. Chef Regi Mathew, the presiding genius, speaks to Kaveri Ponnapa about how the award-winning restaurant, specialising in the homecooking of Kerala, came into being
SWIRLING IN THE DIGITAL ERA - How social media is influencing wine culture
The ever-evolving world of wine is currently witnessing a significant shift towards social media. Devati Mallick steers us through the many ways one can navigate the digital landscape with a simple click, tap, or swipe
Bottling It - The times they are a-changing
Wine in glass bottles has been traditional for a very long time but now change is a-foot, says Carol Wright. The carbon foot print of the glass bottle is not planet friendly
BANDOL - The ruby in the Provence crown
If you thought Provence was only about rosés, you are wrong. Bandol, one of the more prestigious appellations of Provence, is renowned for its bold and structured red wines. Here's what Elizabeth Gabay MW has to say
A Splendid Septet of Wines
Raymond Blake tastes seven vintages of the Burgundy premier cru, Gevrey-Chambertin 'Aux Combottes', from Domaine Dujac, owned by the Seysses family
CYPRUS Dawn of a New Era
On a recent visit to Cyprus, Rosemary George MW is struck by the island's numerous indigenous grape varieties and high altitude vineyards
Madeira The world's longest living wine
Carol Wright on what makes Madeira the 'hottest' thing in wine
AT THE FOOT OF MOUNT ETNA
Altitude, fertile volcanic ash, and abundant sunlight create a unique environment for vineyards
Putting their best foot forward
Craig Wedge is bullish about the rising quality of Australian wines entering the Indian market