MOMENT IN THE SUN

Why Nice once again feels like the coolest place to be in the French Riviera.

- Chrissie McClatchie

WHEN WELL-HEELED tourists first came to the Côte d'Azur in the mid 19th century, they were drawn to Nice for its wide waterfront promenade and warm winter days. But over the years that allure faded and the hotel landscape became tired compared with nearby Cannes and Monaco. Now, with new high-end properties; stylish, made-in-Nice clothing labels; and restaurants that put a fine-dining twist on traditional dishes, the city has some of that luster back.

The hotel scene got a boost last year with the opening of the Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel (doubles from $680), the brand's first address in France. More have arrived. Among the most anticipated was the Hôtel du Couvent (doubles from $965), which debuted in June. The serene, 88-room retreat, which is set inside a 17th-century convent in Old Town, has Roman baths. Also new, in the port district, is Mama Shelter (doubles from $271), which appeals to younger travelers with bright, maximalist décor and a popular rooftop pool and bar.