Seeing Swaziland

South Africa has a brand new country on its doorstep. To celebrate 50 years of independence (and the King’s 50th birthday) Swaziland has been renamed the Kingdom of eSwatini. MELANIE VAN ZYL visited for a 1000km weekend break.

Is that your boat?,” one Thulani asks me with a grin. He’s referring to my sweet ride parked in the shade: Volkswagen’s zooty new Tiguan Allspace. It’s my second day on my second trip to Swaziland and I’m accompanied by two Thulanis (who also happen to be the same age) on a bumpy drive through Malolotja Nature Reserve. I smile back at Thulani, “No, that’s my yacht.” In keeping with the theme of doubles, luckily both Thulanis laugh at my joke. One Thulani, Mr Nkambule is my guide, the other Thulani, Mr Malaza, is the operations manager and we’re about to embark on the treetop Malolotja Canopy Tour.

When I crossed into the Kingdom of eSwatini (perhaps you’ll better recognise it as Swaziland) at the Ngwenya border, I was surprised at how mountainous this section of our neighbouring country was. I thought Lesotho was supposed to be the Mountain Kingdom! However, this national park bordering Mpumalanga in South Africa is home to high hills and magnificent hiking trails; 200km of them. There are also 17 backpacking camps and routes that range from two to seven days. For a quicker injection of adventure though, there’s the canopy tour.

“This one is called the Rabbit Hole. Do you know Alice in Wonderland? Well, this is the Malolotja Wonderland and you’re going to follow our ‘rabbit’ Thulani all the way,” says the other Thulani at the first platform of the zipline tour. Once I step off the edge, the wonderland is revealed from behind the canopy’s foliage curtain. It sure is wonderful. We criss-cross a boiling stream called the Majolomba River, passing tree ferns and wild banana plants to the echoing cries of baboons calling in the gorge. There are 11 platforms, 10 slides and a gut-wrenching 50-metre-long suspension bridge to cross. All too quickly, the tour comes to an end and it’s time to drive on.