What Lies Beneath

The underground Turkish cities of Kaymakli and Derinkuyu present a glimpse of subterranean life that has lasted for millennia

- Neeta Lal

Underground spaces make for exhilarating journeys, with the thrill of descending into the womb of the earth while experiencing a fascinating new subculture. What’s not to love? From the Great Stalactite inside Ireland’s Doolin Cave, and the Western Walls Tunnel in Jerusalem to the 13th century Wieliczka Salt Mine in Poland featuring an entire chapel made of salt, I’ve had my fair share of adrenaline-spiking subterranean sojourns.

However, never had I experienced an entire underground city. Cappadocia, one of Turkey’s most intriguing cities, has a moonlike landscape, honeycombed with ridged valleys, volcanic cones called ‘fairy chimneys’ and craggy hills awash in hues of ochre and vermillion. Countless hidden chapels are carved into the rocks, embellished with hand-painted frescoes. Twisty tunnels, monasteries and settlements sprawl over thousands of kilometers.

Covering much of Central Anatolia, Cappadocia was strategically located on the original Silk Route, playing host to people from ancient civilizations like the Hattis, the Hittites, Phrygians, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans. To protect their citizens against marauding invaders and religious persecutors, the rulers of the city built a network of cave-cities, interconnected by hundreds of tunnels.