Crafted By Hand

In a world of mechanisation, Ji Xiang Confectionery remains one of the few to make traditional ang ku kuehs by hand

- Michelle Yee

Ang ku kueh, also known as red tortoise cake, is a traditional kueh that originated from southern Fujian, China. The tortoise can live to the grand old age of 150 years, so accordingly, the ang ku kueh, moulded into the shape of a tortoise, symbolises longevity, prosperity and wealth. It is most commonly prepared for a baby’s full month and first birthday, as well as an elder’s birthday.

Ang ku kueh arrived in Southeast Asia with Chinese immigrants who came to Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore during the 19th and early 20th centuries. But the original taste and texture have long since changed.

Mr Kelvin Toh, co-owner of popular Ji Xiang Confectionery in Everton Park, explains, “The China version of ang ku kueh is very dry as it is made with less oil. The ones from Southeast Asia were influenced by the Straits Chinese, and are a lot softer and moist thanks to their use of ingredients such as coconut oil and milk. Most of the ang ku kuehs we find in Singapore are the Peranakan version.”

HANDMADE GOODNESS

There is something delightfully satisfying about biting into a piece of hand-crafted ang ku kueh. The soft and pleasantly chewy skin tears apart as you munch, revealing a deliciously soft sweet mung bean paste. The wonderful taste and texture you get from a handmade kueh cannot be compared to the ones produced by machines, which tend to be thicker and tougher.

Unfortunately, not many kueh shops in Singapore make them from scratch these days. To reduce cost and increase efficiency, most shops either mass produce them in their central kitchens or farm them out to factories, and as a result, the flavour and texture are compromised.