The Real Meaning Of Artisanal
WINE&DINE|March/April 2019

F&B insiders weigh in on the real meaning of artisanal

Mia Chenyze
The Real Meaning Of Artisanal

Artisanal coffee. Artisanal macarons. Craft beers. It started innocuously enough, seven years ago, then suddenly the concept of ‘artisanal’ mushroomed into popular consciousness. With fast-food chains and mass-produced goods co-opting artisanal’s auxiliary vocabulary—words like ‘handcrafted’, ‘authentic’ and ‘traditional’– overwhelmed consumers quickly turned cynical.

“Back then, everything was artisanal, just like how ‘gluten-free’ is currently plastered even onto irrelevant products,” Amanda Tan, co-owner of online Japanese grocery Zairyo, recalls. Trends are cyclical, so pundits assumed that this too was just another marketing fad riding on the feel-good factor. Yet ‘artisanal’ has tenaciously stuck around, evolving in tone and authenticity.

Lin Jingyin, who works in marketing and partnerships, traces her interest in artisanal products to art school. Learning the makeup of clothes for a fashion module indelibly changed her consumption attitudes. She turned more curious and discerning; craftsmanship, sustainability and uniqueness became priorities.

The on going momentum was likely shaped by similar influences. Since about five years ago, DIY culture has been on the rise, with a broad spectrum of workshops for everything from jewellery-making to pottery and more. Fermentation and bread-making are buzzwords for culinary workshops. Learning and making naturally deepens the DIY enthusiast’s appreciation of craftsmanship.

For Tan, running Zairyo altered her shopping habits. “Previously, I couldn’t justify the steep prices. But after visiting suppliers and understanding the craftsmanship involved, I became more willing to pay for artisanal goods.”

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