Rustles of Silk

Chitra Balasubramaniam explores the sensuous universe of silk.

- Chitra Balasubramaniam

September onwards—especially the months of October to March—is the season for festivities and weddings in India. This season is ruled by the queen or mother of all fabrics—silk. Soft and sensuous, with the perfect drape, this fabric conquers all. Silk has a timeless appeal; Silk—be it the mulberry, or the range of tussar, muga and eri-is very popular.

TRADITIONAL APPEAL

Traditional work on zari has always been a major hit. The entire range of brocades, rustling kanjeevarams, paithanis, patolas, ikats, gharcholas—all of them add to the festive fervour. The looms of the weavers start singing in the countdown to the festive season, so that they have enough wares for the festivals season. One area in Uttar Pradesh which has come in for design intervention is Mubarakpur in the Azamgarh district. The weavers, who are very skilled in silk weaving—the traditional Banarasi— have suffered mainly because of the competition from cheaper power loom saris. Also, given their inability to buy raw materials of good quality, their production has suffered. The Indian Trust for Rural Heritage and Development has helped with the marketing, organising them and working with them. Today, they are producing excellent quality saris, suit fabrics, dupattas, all in pure zari and silver. The work is carried out in jacquard looms and there is an excellent market for it.

This season, the focus is on Banarasi brocades. Given the fact that it is one of the heritage weaves of the country and added to it is that it is the PM’s constituency, Banarasi work has seen a revival. There is a distinct intervention of design in play, organisation of design shows and other supportive thrusts are being provided so that the traditional handloom can work to perfection.

THE BANARASI CONNECT!