REWIND, UNWIND

Rahul Bose’s visit to the Maldives and its ethereal waters is a reminder of what’s beautiful in the world during these grim times

- Rahul Bose

It was a cool, bracing evening. Tables had been placed on the beach. Paper lanterns swayed gently over linened shoulders. The seafood was fresh, the conversation stimulating. Rillwan, our waiter, interrupted with a murmur of apology. He took a bottle of sparkling water and placed it in front of the candle on the table, remembering from the previous night that I dislike the light from a naked flame.

There are many obvious charms to the Maldives – some of the best diving in the world, the clarity of the sea, the quality of its cuisine, the aesthetics of its resorts. But it is the hidden lures of the place that make me return there time after time. First up, let’s be clear: Unless you are sailing around the archipelago with your boat as your home, your Maldivian experience rests solely on the resort you are in. The dive centre, the food, the service, your villa – all of it relies on your resort. There is no “nonresort” Maldivian essence. (Unless you choose to shack up in a flat in Male, which would make you a very curious species indeed.)