From Russia, With Love

In a world of orthopaedic sneakers and haute tracksuits, Anthony Vaccarellogoes against the grain, with an ode to Saint Laurentsmost opulent collection inspired by the Ballets Russes.

- Amy Yasmine.

In 1976, when asked what his most beautiful memory in his 30 years of design was, Monsieur Saint Laurent responded, “The collection inspired by Russia. Perhaps it wasn’t the most successful one, but it was wonderfully received at a time when the world condemned opulence. And it was opulent.”

Indeed, amid the heady spirit of sex, drugs, and rock ’n’ roll of the ’70s, Monsieur Saint Laurent’s Opéra-Ballets Russes haute couture collection couldn’t have stood out more than a Barguzin coat at Woodstock. Its gilded furs, ornate embroideries, and luscious silks were the antichrist to the decade’s suede fringing and bell bottoms, but this season at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello struck a balance between the two.