The Rise of the Gastrotavern
New York magazine|April 11-24, 2022
At Inga’s Bar and several other recently opened places, New York’s oldest style of restaurant gets new life.
Photography by Richard Tuschman
The Rise of the Gastrotavern

I’m tired of food stuff,” says Sean Rembold. “I’m tired of it just being about food or about someone’s name.” Hardly the sentiment you’d expect from a New York chef who recently opened his first restaurant after decades spent working his way up the culinary ladder, culminating in an 11-year stint running the locavore kitchens at Williamsburg’s Diner, Marlow & Sons, and Reynard. He left that post in 2017, fed up with the volume-crazed restaurant-group grind. But on a family trip to the coast of Ireland, he found fresh inspiration over potted prawns and raw oysters at a local landmark called Nancy’s, a quintessential pub where the food—“So simple, so good,” Rembold says—mattered less to him than the neighborly spirit and true sense of community.

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