Fishing For Sardines
The PEAK Singapore|June 2020
In a self-quarantined world, Michelle Tchea discovers that vintage sardines are a hit with gourmets and collectors – and have quite a cult following.
Michelle Tchea
Fishing For Sardines

It is after 8pm in Barcelona – the perfect time for tapas and vermouth. Perched on barstools in their taberna or neighbourhood watering hole, two friends are staring intently at the tapa before them. The cold-pressed olive oil coating the sardines in the metal tin glistens under the pendant lights, creating a golden hue as if sent from the heavens.

Of course, this is not your average tin of small fish. These are vintage sardines, considered pijo – Spanish slang for posh – and priced at a little over 200 euros (S$310). Just like fine wine or cheese aged for 15 years, they represent immense value and pleasure for gourmands. Even a Michelin star chef knows to resist the urge to embellish the tin’s contents for fear of ruining a truly artisanal product turned precious commodity.

THE LUXURY OF TINNED DELICACIES

Eating in a lockdown has taught us that there are simpler ways to enjoy gourmet foods. Think gastronomic treasures of the canned kind.

Cast your inhibitions aside for a moment because the gourmet hierarchy is not as bleak and absolute as we think. European countries and even Japan celebrate artisanal ingredients locked tightly into a humble metal tin with a key or peelback lid. Why, one of the world’s most sumptuous indulgences – caviar – is transported in a tin. Now, imagine a delicately grilled Atlantic pilchard served in a rich tomato confit so juicy and luscious, it melts in your mouth. Welcome to the exciting world of gourmet canned sardines.

HISTORY IN THE CANNING

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