The Trees Have Eyes
National Geographic Traveller (UK)|September 2018

PAY ATTENTION TO THE BEHAVIOUR OF THE RESIDENT ANIMALS IN ZAMBIA’S SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK AND YOU’LL HAVE A BETTER CHANCE OF SPOTTING AN ELUSIVE LEOPARD IN THE WILD.

Emma Gregg
The Trees Have Eyes

On the topmost branch of a towering ebony tree in the Luangwa Valley, a baboon is going berserk “WAH-hu!” he yells. Two harsh syllables, delivered with a fierce, pointed stare. “WAH-hu! WAH-hu!”

He’s clearly incensed, but not, apparently, by us. He’s concentrating on something else, just beyond our line of vision.

“Could be a contact call,” says Godfrey Shawa, our guide. “Maybe he’s been separated from the troop.” He lifts a well-worn pair of binoculars to his eyes and scans the ebony grove for clues. “On the other hand, maybe he’s just seen a leopard.”

My heart skips a beat. A leopard!

What is it that makes them so magnetic?

You don’t need to have one in clear sight to sense their enigmatic, exotic presence. Simply being in a leopard’s territory and knowing that, somewhere, a pair of smoky-gold eyes might be watching you from the shadows is enough to set the pulse racing. To the uninitiated, their forest habitat may look as innocent as a bluebell wood in spring. But a leopard turns it into a place of hidden dangers and raw, edgy anticipation.

Godfrey steers our open-topped safari vehicle in the direction of the baboon’s gaze and we peer intently into the foliage. There are no obvious signs: no paw prints or drag marks among the fallen leaves, no clawing on the trees. Nonetheless, if Godfrey’s hunch is correct, a whiskered face or a rosette-spotted flank could appear at any moment.

The baboon falls silent. “Does that mean the leopard’s gone?” I ask. “We’ll never know,” says Godfrey, and I feel my face fall.

Bu hikaye National Geographic Traveller (UK) dergisinin September 2018 sayısından alınmıştır.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

Bu hikaye National Geographic Traveller (UK) dergisinin September 2018 sayısından alınmıştır.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER (UK) DERGISINDEN DAHA FAZLA HIKAYETümünü görüntüle
Dianne Whelan
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Dianne Whelan

THOUGH NOT A SEASONED HIKER TO BEGIN WITH, THE FILMMAKER BECAME THE FIRST PERSON TO COMPLETE THE WORLD'S LONGEST TRAIL NETWORK

time-read
3 dak  |
January/February 2025
NIGERIA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

NIGERIA

The country's many communities come together over hearty meals with plenty of heat

time-read
2 dak  |
January/February 2025
Katie Hale
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Katie Hale

A VOYAGE TO THE GREAT WHITE CONTINENT IS BOTH A DREAM COME TRUE AND A CALL TO ARMS, TO PROTECT OUR ICY POLES AND, IN TURN, OUR PLANET

time-read
3 dak  |
January/February 2025
WILTSHIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

WILTSHIRE

BEYOND THE MAIN ATTRACTION OF STONEHENGE, WILTSHIRE HAS EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE ANCIENT SITES, GIANT CHALK HORSES AND COSY PUBS IN HISTORIC VILLAGES

time-read
3 dak  |
January/February 2025
BATH
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

BATH

Thermal baths and Regency heritage have put this Somerset city firmly on the travel map - and this year the spotlight will be on former resident and literary great Jane Austen, in celebration of the 250th anniversary of her birth

time-read
7 dak  |
January/February 2025
GRANADA
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

GRANADA

In this Andalucian city, flamenco is an art form as well as a way of life not just for traditional dancers and singers but also for hip-hop stars, classical guitar legends and street artists

time-read
9 dak  |
January/February 2025
India's Golden Triangle
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

India's Golden Triangle

LINKING DELHI, THE TAJ MAHAL AND THE PINK CITY OF JAIPUR, WITH DETOURS FOR TEMPLES AND TIGERS, THIS IS THE PERFECT ROUTE FOR FIRST-TIMERS. WORDS: POOJA NAIK

time-read
10+ dak  |
January/February 2025
FORGED BY FIRE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

FORGED BY FIRE

A SUBTROPICAL ISLAND IN THE ATLANTIC, MADEIRA HAS RUGGED VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS THAT RISE ABOVE THE CLOUDS, NATURAL SWIMMING POOLS DOWN AT SEA LEVEL AND MORE THAN 1,900 MILES OF HISTORIC AQUEDUCTS TRACING THE LANDSCAPES IN BETWEEN

time-read
2 dak  |
January/February 2025
ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

ADRIFT IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE

A KAYAKING EXPEDITION THROUGH NORWAY'S LOFOTEN ISLANDS OFFERS WHITE-SAND BEACHES, ROYAL ENCOUNTERS AND THE CHANCE TO CHANNEL YOUR INNER VIKING

time-read
10 dak  |
January/February 2025
the RETURN
National Geographic Traveller (UK)

the RETURN

ON A PRIVATE GAME RESERVE IN SOUTH AFRICA'S KWAZULU-NATAL PROVINCE, AN UNLIKELY CREATURE IS MAKING A TENTATIVE COMEBACK - AND VISITORS ARE OFFERED A GLIMPSE INTO THE CONSERVATION EFFORTS TO SAVE IT AND OTHER NATIVE WILDLIFE

time-read
10 dak  |
January/February 2025