48 hours in FUNCHAL

Jenny Oldaker discovers Madeira's capital to be an elegant, artistic place with wide open spaces, verdant beauty spots and a picture-perfect sea-facing location...

Dogged by a dismissive characterisation as the domain of 'newlyweds and nearly deads', Madeira is, these days, rightly shaking off its staid reputation. This sub-tropical Portuguese island has all the exotic flora, epic scenery and historic places that have long attracted visitors, but its lively gastronomic scene, burgeoning culture of arts and impressive line in active pursuits are gaining renown, and today the island offers a much livelier getaway than one might imagine.

Its capital, Funchal, is leading the charge in changing the island's standing. This refined, welcoming place is, in many ways, a tickall-boxes holiday destination, balancing all the culture and excitement of a city break with seafront tranquility, green spaces and endless views - not to mention an alluring climate, particularly its mild winter temperatures.

Funchal's geographic position - gently spread down the mountainside and across a natural 'amphitheatre' - is part of its charm, giving the place an open feel as it gazes out towards the Atlantic. Cable cars roll languidly up from the seafront to the district of Monte, while Funchal's streets are packed with bars and restaurants, and its sophisticated centre boasts shops, galleries and museums that could keep any visitor occupied for days.

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