TIPPING POINT

How much cash should you leave and who benefits from a gratuity? New legislation in the UK seeks to clear things up

- DEREK PICOT

TIPS HAVE SURELY existed since the exchange of services began - but modern tipping culture has morphed into another beast. We can blame the Americans for the expectation of leaving no less than 20% on the plate, regardless of superior service. But it was hoteliers and restaurateurs who introduced the ubiquitous 'service charge', a device that emerged to ensure the kitchen staff were included as well.

Previously, cash tips were either kept by the server or more usually handed over to the head waiter who held it in a 'tronc' and distributed. The consequence of this is well known to anyone who has served at the bottom of the hierarchy...

Of course, it wasn't long before some unscrupulous operators decided that the service charge was a useful way to add back to the minimum wage and reduce payroll. Service charge occasionally confuses consumers, some of whom feel that in addition to paying the charge on the bill it's also obligatory to leave a cash tip on the plate.