Dearest MOTHERLAND
Gourmet Traveller|February 2024
We asked a few of our favourite Grecophiles to pen love letters to the cities, towns and islands that hold a special place in their hearts.
Dearest MOTHERLAND

ATHENS

By Tessa Kiros

“I like to walk through the old streets of Plaka. Feel the silent magnificence the ancientness of it all.” 

Myth has it that the goddess Athena, who was born from the forehead of her father Zeus – the God of Gods – gifted the Athenians an olive tree and became the patron of the city of Athens. As a child, I loved landing in Athens at night, so

I could watch the city lights from above, and one of the first things I always wanted to do is go to a periptero (tiny kiosk) and get an ice cream on a stick.

I can hardly wait for a local souvlaki – since I was small – from just about anywhere  it is consistent. I like it traditional (no fried potatoes or “sos”, sauce) – just tzatziki, slivers of onion and tomato tucked in. I love it if they happen to have a little chopped parsley and I always ask for a wedge of lemon on the side.

Sometimes I like to wake up at sunrise and walk through the old streets of Plaka before the crowds get there. Feel the silent magnificence, the ancientness of it all. Then, walk up to Anafiotika, where the pot plants and cats make it feel like an island. I love to have a risogalo for breakfast and wander through the central market, towards Evripidou Street, where I always get dried bunches of oregano collected from the hills and “tsai tou vounou” (mountain tea) – full of iron and minerals. Some excellent honey, pickled caper leaves, pastourma, halva, and Vissinada (sour cherry cordial) – for splashing into a glass of fizzy water and ice.

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