It took me three years to realise that the rice is more important than the fish.” Our white-jacketed sushi chef places another perfectly formed piece of nigiri sushi before me. He’s been studying how to perform this alchemy since 2013, regularly putting in 16-hour days, and has picked up a trick or two. His satisfaction is palpable as we admire the hapuka topping, a dab of fiery chartreuse yuzukosho adding vibrancy to its lightly scored flesh.
I’m sitting at Komeyui’s sleek timber counter, midway through a $150 omakase (chef’s choice) menu. It’s brightly lit, in contrast to the moodier dining room where well-spaced round tables are arrayed beneath a charcoal-hued ceiling. It’s part of the ceremony of omakase to watch the chefs’ hand movements, who look like they’re communing in secret sign language, as they deftly form rice balls for each nigiri.
Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin May 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
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Bu hikaye Gourmet Traveller dergisinin May 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
From personal experience
Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.
Kimberley Moulton
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.
Tom Wallace
We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.
Best in class
The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)
A taste of refuge
Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.
BE OUR GUEST
Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation
Barcelona BUZZ
A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.
HEATHCOTE BOUND
MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.
The art of...relishing restaurants
Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner
HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
