THAILAND

Its palm-fringed bays and warm waters may be world-class, but there's much more to do in Thailand than many expect - from slow island exploration and cave meditation in the south to hands-on farm experiences and craft workshops in the north

EYEWITNESS

ONE FOR ALL & ALL FOR ONE

Community ownership has helped the residents of the eastern Thai island of Koh Mak curtail development and create a low-carbon haven for slow exploration. Words: Richard Franks

Menacing clouds skulk over Ao Pra Beach like a pack of starving wolves at dusk. We don't have much time. Racing against the impending storm, we chuck plastic bottles, food containers and beer-can rings into a washed-up rusty refrigerator, like we're on a dystopian episode of Supermarket Sweep.

"These things are a real nuisance to sea life," says Nipon Suddhidhanakool, his laid-back demeanour temporarily dissolving into frustration as he points at the old fishing nets and straws in our plastic molehill. "The fridge is, too, but at least it's not microplastic." I hadn't expected this island's crystal-clear waters to spew a kitchen appliance onto its powder-soft sands, but I'm told the rough seas at this time of year throw up all kinds of junk.

It's Koh Mak's low season and I'm on a beach-clean mission with Nipon. Along with five relatives and four other families, he co-owns this island in Trat province, 190 miles south east of Bangkok, near the Cambodian border. His work to preserve the island's natural beauty and water quality led to him becoming the chairman of the Koh Mak Tourism Community Enterprise. He also oversees the local branch of the worldwide, community-led Trash Hero initiative, which he brought to Koh Mak in 2017 to clean up the island and better manage waste.