DEEP DIVE

Go for a swim with sperm whales, and you may find yourself hooked. Maggie Shipstead journeys to the Caribbean island of Dominica, where these giants of the deep are making a big splash.

- Maggie Shipstead

IN MY EXPERIENCE, the central danger of swimming with whales in the open ocean is not that you will get smushed or chomped by a multi-ton marine mammal or somehow vanish into the deep but, rather, that you may contract a scorching case of whale-swimming fever. This is a condition for which there is no known cure: those afflicted live in a state of perpetual longing, always dreaming of returning to the water and the whales. I should know. I'm one of them.

For chronic sufferers, one of the world's most alluring destinations is Dominica (doh-min-nee-kah), a mountainous dollop of a nation in the Lesser Antilles, the Caribbean's southeasternmost arc of islands. There, a population of around 200 sperm whales resides year-round in warm and sheltered waters. Historically, a strict permit system has kept commercial whale swimming to a minimum-a good thing for both the whales and their human guests, since fewer swimmers mean less disruption and higher-quality, more ethical encounters. And in 2023, the Dominican government announced plans to establish the world's first marine protected area for sperm whales, a 300-square-mile reserve that could help secure a brighter future for these remarkable animals.