Estancia Cristina, Argentinian Patagonia

This historic ranch on the shores of Lake Argentino proves trusting to fate is the best option of all, especially when you have the glacial majesty of Patagonia to fall back on

-  Mark Stratton

Fate had directed me to Estancia Cristina. A COVID-19 outbreak had cancelled my planned Antarctic cruise from Ushuaia, so my hastily arranged Plan B was to explore Argentinian Patagonia. At first, it felt like no more than a consolation prize, as I couldn't imagine replicating the beauty of the frozen continent. But I couldn't have been more wrong.

There are no roads to this estancia (ranch), just a lavishly scenic three-hour boat transfer from El Calafate to the western edge of Lake Argentino, where the preternaturally teal-blue water meets Upsala Glacier. What was originally a sheep farm, created in 1914 by pioneers Jessie and Joseph Percival Masters, now lies within the boundaries of Los Glaciares National Park. It's a setting to savour. Like a South American Shangri-La, Estancia Cristina sits within a luminous green valley surrounded by snowy mountains.