Just as we stepped through the rusted, wrought-iron gates of St. Simons, Georgia's so-called Strangers Cemetery, from hot daylight into a shadowy overgrown world of Spanish moss that dangled from the twisting branches of live oaks and wafted over eroding gravestones, we were startled by a ding from Jenny's phone. Its message sent a quick chill down her spine: You have arrived at your destination.
Perfect chance had brought us to this spooky and wonderful place, though the journey began simply enough. Many weeks earlier, we'd asked Lesley's cousin Scott Perrin, a veteran of several annual Intracoastal Waterway migrations between New England and Florida, for his favorite barbecue joint along the route.
"Southern Soul," Scott said without hesitating, "on St. Simons Island." So when our friend Jenny Gifford flew to Savannah, Georgia, to join Lesley and me aboard Billy Pilgrim in Georgia's Sea Islands for her Thanksgiving holiday, we built our wanderings around a visit to Southern Soul.
The Atlantic coast Sea Islands preserve constellations of microcultures spanning from the coastal Carolinas through northern Florida. Isolated within semipermeable borders, these communities are separated by swiftly moving tidal waters with such Muskogee and Creek names as Ogeechee, Wassaw, Ossabaw, Sapelo and Altamaha. Other rivers and sounds are named for European saints: Catherine, Simon, Andrew, Mary. Through this Lowcountry stretches a US National Heritage Area called the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor, recognizing the speakers of the only distinctly African Creole language in the United States. All fall we'd been looking forward to lingering a while among these islands.
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Off Watch
A1A is not only my favorite Jimmy Buffett album, but it's one of my favorite records ever. If I were marooned on an island and could bring only five CDs with me, this would be one of them
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Trying to hide a boat's problems never ends well for the seller. Follow these tips to have a successful day
THE WESTERN WAY
Instead of buying a pricey custom canvas awning for my schooner, I made my own \"covered wagon.\"
HIDDEN GEM
BUT ALL AROUND IS A PARADISE FOR SAILORS WHO LOVE TO LINGER AND EXPLORE
Last Man Standing
During the past four decades, the once-thriving business of American production sailboat manufacturing has nearly vanished, and dozens of companies and builders have fallen by the wayside. And then there's Tartan Yachts of northeast Ohio, which, in some aspects, is as vibrant as ever. Longtime Tartan stalwart Tim Jackett, a marine-industry lion in winter still making a stand, might be the central reason why
Boat of the Year 2024
With sweet, early autumn sailing conditions on Chesapeake Bay, a strong fleet of 19 contenders competed for top honors in our annual Boat of the Year competition. Once the spray had settled and the votes were tallied, the judges awarded prizes in seven categories for monohulls and multihulls. The overall winner? The surprising, innovative Jeanneau Yachts 55.
On Watch
Sometimes, a seamanship or safety issue requires sailors to give up and turn around. But other times, it's just fear taking control of a situation that can be handled
Sailor & Galley
This rich, steaming stew from the Pacific Northwest warms chilled sailors' bones and brings back a lifetime of memories.
Seamanship
George Eldridge first published the Eldridge Tide and Pilot Book in 75. Its new edition, published by the sixth generation of his family, is an impressive feat of continuity
Island Time
It's impossible to rank these favorite destinations by beauty. Instead, sailors should set a waypoint based on what they want to experience