Indian wine viewed through Bordelais eyes

What do producers from Bordeaux think about Indian wines? Ruma Singh elicits their frank opinions

- Ruma Singh

India is one of the world’s fastest-growing alcobev markets, but wine consumption in the country is still low, less than 100ml per capita. Yet, the country also has a large young population, eager to adopt new trends yet conscious of health, and this is where wine fits in better than most other alcoholic beverages. Although Indian wine’s potential for growth is slowed down by high taxes and red tape, this has not deterred the country’s top wine companies from laying out ambitious plans. These companies have been experimenting with innovation in viticulture and vinification in an effort to bring better quality to Indian consumers. Technological innovations — from agri-voltaic systems to optical sorting machines, from amphorae to precision irrigation systems — are all there in the mix. Focusing on lower yields to give better grapes, on soil suitability and clonal section are becoming commonplace for premium wines. And the results are showing. More Indian consumers are opting to drink Indian wine than ever before, and are increasingly ready to spend more on these premium offerings.

Offering a knowledgeable outsider’s viewpoint on Indian wine, as it is today, are some interesting excerpts from Ruma Singh’s inteaction with a group of Bordeaux wine producers who visited India in December 2022. The producers, representing notable estates from SaintEmilion, Sauternes, Margaux and the Haut-Medoc, visited Mumbai and Bangalore, during their week-long visit — including the vineyards of Grover Zampa outside Bangalore — and tasted several Indian wines.

Ruma Singh: Indian wine companies have been making significant changes to their viticultural practices, employing modern technology and a deeper understanding of grapes. What were your impressions during your visit?