RHYTHM DIVINE

The centuries-old qawwali tradition at Delhi's Hazrat Nizamuddin dargah is an unmissable experience for music lovers, seekers of Sufi wisdom and curious travellers.

- Rana Safvi

As I negotiate the lanes in Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti, I am greeted by a cocktail of fragrance. Red roses in small white trays and incense are being sold all around. The smell of seekh kababs and nihari from the restaurants on the way, may distract momentarily but don't deter the seeker. It's a Friday. Prayers have been held this afternoon, and sema mehfils will take place this evening at the dargah.

There are many walking with me, for dargahs are natural magnets for those seeking God's blessings. Shrines are said to be sanctified by Divine Grace and the one I am visiting is the shrine of Mehboob-e-Ilahi (beloved of God), the 13th-century Chishti saint, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya.

The dargah is full of devotees of all ages and gender. They come from all over the world, and from various faiths, all united in the quest for Divine Love.

The qawwals sit facing the brightly lit shrine. Like others gathered here, we make a beeline for the domed marble shrine, which has bright yellow decorations on the walls. The marble jaalis are full of kalava, a red thread tied by those seeking the saint's intercession with God. Each thread has a story of hope, despair, love and longing, faith and healing-if only we could hear them. These prayers are borne up to the court of God on the wings of prayers enveloped in the smoke from the incense sticks.