THE ETERNAL RIVER

There's no better immersion into the wonders of ancient Egypt than a sailing along the Nile. Thomas Chatterton Williams boards an opulent new river ship-and embarks on a journey for the ages.

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THE SUNBAKED TEMPLES and tombs on the banks of the Nile River are books penned in stone. You do not pass through them as mere physical spaces. These walls are legible, carrying missives from another world. If the medium is the message, these enduring piles of engraved and painted rock amount to some of the most sophisticated communication devices in existence. That was my first thought as I wandered in amazement through Karnak, the vast temple complex in Luxor, and the idea stayed with me for the duration of my eight nights in Egypt.

I had arrived via Cairo from my home in Paris to experience the Sphinx, a new Uniworld river ship. But I had also come to fulfill a childhood dream of exploring the relics of ancient Egypt. Upon arrival in Luxor, my fellow passengers and I were spirited away from the ferocious African sun at our first stop, Pharaoh Ramses II's temple complex, by the gentle humor and substantive knowledge of our guide, Hazem Khalaf. Uniworld partners with the Egyptian-owned Spring Tours for its sailings, and Khalaf is its director-a genial Egyptologist who has been leading tours for 22 years. He treats his métier with the reverence of a master chef or doctor, or maybe even one of Hemingway's priestly Spanish bullfighters.